On January 21st, 2024, when we left the TimBila Safari Lodge, the sun was shining from a blue sky. Where a few hours ago brown water was rolling through the sandy river bed, only a few puddles of water could be seen. We switched on the 4×4 and low gear and crossed the riverbed to scramble up the other side.

An hour later we reached Kalkfeld, on a sandy track with little traffic. We crossed paths with impala and oryx antelopes, which took long leaps to escape. After a fuel stop in Outjo, the Etosha Safari Lodge and the Etosha National Park were only 120 kilometers away. For once we prioritized the lodge’s inviting pool, which we had to ourselves, over the wildlife. We had seen and driven enough that day.

The next morning at 6:30 a.m. we were standing in Okaukuejo, at the entrance to Etosha. We took a turn to the west and disturbed a spotted hyena that was lying with its young in a water tube under the road. She eyed us suspiciously before disappearing back down.

We then drove west towards the Olifantsbad waterhole – an apt name, as it soon turned out! On the way there, a group of 21 (!) elephants came towards us. The lead bull immediately made it clear who had the right of way! He only had to wave his mighty trunk once to convince me to switch on the reverse gear. For the next ten minutes we drove backwards, watched carefully by the bull, who continued walking and had no intensions to turn into the bush with his group. He only did that when the waterhole was visible…

PS: If you come across an elephant, it is clear who has the right of way: the stronger one! And in any case, that is always the elephant. If you don’t take this to heart, you have to expect something like this!