The Tuamotu archipelago consists of 77 atolls. Tikehau, with only 600 inhabitants, is one of them. In 1870 missionaries on the Tuamotus established the production of copra (dried coconut), which made up 40% of total exports at the end of the 19th century. The cultivation of pearls and mother-of-pearl were also important – that was what was needed back then to produce buttons. It all came to an end when the buttons were made out of plastic and copra was less in demand.

The Polynesians themselves are responsible for the downfall of pearl farming. Without quality control and with high export taxes, these pearls had no sting against the cheaper ones produced in China! The archipelago began to depopulate drastically. That only changed when airstrips were built in 1970. Air Tahiti brought tourists to the islands and took fresh fish on board for Tahiti on the return flight.

Today the islands live from the government-subsidized copra production, commercial fishing and a little tourism. We hardly met a dozen tourists in the six days on the island. Less than black tip sharks we encountered while snorkeling in the lagoon!

PS. Nothing grows on Tikehau except coconut trees. Copra production, fishing and tourism are the only sources of income and job opportunities.