There were only a few guests in the restaurant in Okaukuejo. The waiter recited the restricted offer of dishes and was glad that he had something to do. What is nice for us tourists – empty campsites, little traffic, heavily reduced prices in the lodges – is a debacle for the employees who have to survive without work and without insurance as well!

The oryx steak was delicious; the beer too. Then we went to the illuminated water hole, where within two hours twelve (!) Black rhinos stopped by – what an experience. At 11 pm we went to sleep to wake up the next morning, shortly before sunrise. Once again, a blue sky arched over us …

At 6.30 am we set off with the sun behind us. At the first waterhole we met an old lion, who was lazing in the grass. On the second some zebras, wildebeests, giraffes and a lion who was looking for his breakfast from an elevated viewing point. On the third we watched a big family of elephants splashing in the water. As we continued our journey we came across herds of zebras and ostriches that were traveling with their young. It was a game drive at its best …

PS. Almost six hundred elephants were killed at Camp Olifantrus during a drought in 1982-83 – «culling» in technical language – because the steadily growing population became a problem (luckily this «slaughter» never had to be repeated!)