We attended the last service in September 2010 in South Horr, in northern Kenya, when we were on our way to Ethiopia. What we experienced last sunday in the church of Anatonu, on Raivavae, strongly reminded us of the mass of that time, when we also did not understand what the bishop was preaching in Swahili. But there was a lot of singing there like here!

At 6.30 am the church bell woke us up. After breakfast with tropical fruits, bread, butter, papaya jam and a strong coffee, we walked to the church. The service was scheduled for 10.30 am. In front of the church stood magnificently dressed, matronly women in their colored robes and beautiful headdresses. Most wore a pandanus hat adorned with flowers and feathers. Most had fixed a hibiscus blossom in their (black) hair. (It was a scene that would have provided Gauguin with a good subject for one of his paintings!)

We sat on the balustrade, from where we had a good view of what was going on. First there was singing and a band consisting of ten men with ukulele and drums set the pace. Then it was the turn of the preacher. We didn’t understand what he was preaching. But it sounded like a reprimand! It was nicer when the parish began to sing again. Everything was easygoing! Children played or watched cartoons on their mother’s smartphone, women whispered together, and teenagers gave each other longing glances …

PS. I couldn’t help but get the impression that this church event was also about seeing-and-being-seen – it was an unforgettable experience!