We knew the Palmwag Lodge from our first stay in January. Back then we were almost the only guests. In the meantime, it has become a bit different and better for those who make a living from tourism. You see more Europeans again; but above all Namibians and South Africans who spend their holidays in the Kunene region.

This time we wanted to take a trip through the Palmwag Concession. This conservation area covers more than a 5,500 km² in the north-west of Namibia. This area is the habitat of animals that are well adapted to the semi-desert climate. For example, the famous desert elephants, zebras, springboks, oryx, giraffes and black rhinos.

We stood at the entrance gate at 9 am on the morning of May 10th, 2021. After we had shown our permit, the gate was opened. There were around 160 kilometers ahead of us before we would reach the Hoanib Valley the following day, where the desert elephants are at home. On this day, on a drive through a bewitchingly beautiful landscape, we met neither elephants nor giraffes. On the other hand, mountain-zebras and large herds of springboks, which lived up to their name with their jumping in the air.

PS. 137 kilometers and seven and a half hours later, we set up camp on the Mudorib River. There was no water here; not even an outhouse. We were all alone and had the twinkling starry sky to ourselves.