* Based on Stanley’s famous greeting when he met David Livingstone at Lake Tanganyika in November 1871.

After two days on the Kwando River, we drove south on the C 48 on January 3, 2022. An hour later we arrived in the former Mamili National Park, which is now called Rupara National Park. Camp No. 4 was slightly elevated on the edge of a dry canal. (The Linyanti only brings water from Angola after it had fallen there as rain six months earlier!) There was no Lapa and so no shelter in case it started to rain. It did so later; but only for a short time.

Livingstone Camp is just three miles from Rupara Camp. We drove them the following day after we had a last look at impalas and waterbucks. The sandy and wet trail led us to the reception. There we met Jörg, aka Mr. Moringa, as he is called here. The next four hours will be unforgettable. Not only because of the interesting stories that Jörg knew to tell, but also because of the cold beer, the sweet mango and the mayonnaise that he served us.

PS. Those interested can here find out more about the moringa or horseradish tree.