On September 24th, 2022 there was an early wake-up call. At six o’clock the sky began to turn a pale pink, and then blood red. And then a red ball of fire rose from behind a Baobab nearby! After offering a morning greeting to the baobab under which we camped, we had breakfast under its branches, which were as thick as the thickest firs in my grandfather’s forest. Strengthened with Ovaltine, muesli and a papaya, we drove back to Tsumke.

Back in Tsumke we turned north to Sikereti Camp, which is seventy kilometers away at the entrance to Khaudum. The track was sandy but in good condition and could be driven at a speed of 70 km/h. At the entrance gate we paid the fee, which is Nam$ 110.– per day (CHF 6. –) for Namib residents. (In the national parks of Kenya and Tanzania you pay the same in US$) The two neatly dressed NRW employees in green uniforms greeted us with a cheerful «Welcome to Khaudum».

Just before the Sikereti camp we turned left to the Tsoanafontein waterhole, ten miles away. Half an hour later we parked Mahangu in the shade and climbed onto the lookout. Careful, there is no fence between visitors and the wild animals in Khaudum! We didn’t have to wait long for roan antelopes (In Namibia it can only be found in the Khaudum) and Kudu to approach the waterhole. And then a large group of Elephants appeared in the distance. What a spectacle as the flock set out to quench their thirst and take a bath!

PS. The new Sikereti camp has been operational since July 2022. In contrast to the San camp, there is a shower and a proper toilet – but no baobab!